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he Pan American is back: after a fire two floors above shuttered the new Nolita hotspot in the spring, the team that made Spanglish-speaking sparks has come back for round two. The bones are the same: a chic space that encourages playful cuisine, owners with enough heart for all the geographic regions they aim to represent, and a dynamite menu with flavors North and South of the border. But much is new: The Pan American is wearing this season’s flavors—quite literally modernizing and polishin...

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